Dash reworking

This month it's been all about the bodywork and the interior

The dash was stripped back and I was considering how to mount the single-DIN stereo. Someone already had hacked the dash to get a stereo in there but it was very dodgy. I also reviewed the pull switches I got with the car and realised that most of them didn't work properly (the brass contacts inside had worn down too much) so I decided to get some new Narva ones from the local parts place. So given the stereo hack and the fact that the new switches needed different sized holes I decided to cut out the existing centre portion and replace with a custom stainless panel onto which I'd already welded some brackets to suit the stereo.

I also found a modular power socket and double-USB panel from Narva (or Hella, can't remember which) that slotted in nicely under the dash after I cut out a couple of ~30mm dia holes with a carbide cutter.

And since the car didn't come with an ignition switch (and the last guy had attempted to patch the hole with fibreglass) I removed the patch and welded the hole up properly. I'm going to use a column mounted ignition switch (more details on that later)

Finally I gave the dash a prime and a spray with the body colour.

Exising dash

Existing centre portion showing hacked radio slot.

New stainless centre piece with holes for the new switches

View from the back

New switches mounted

New power socket and USB

Patched up ignition switch hole

After initial prime and bogging up the slight imperfections

After the initial topcoat

The glovebox cover

Long time between posts.....

 

My apologies.... it's been 2 months since my last confession post. So what I have I been up to? When we left the action I'd just finished doing the frame for the new tray. And here is the mounting of the fuel tank:

Panel work

So I've started work on the bodywork of the car. First thing was to cut back all the dodgy paint and look for poorly repaired rust, and I found some in the sills:

First I tried to weld up the holes but the parent metal was so thin I decided to cut out the offending part and replace with a custom bent piece of stainless. I also recovered about a cubic foot of dirt from the sill after I cut it out. If nothing else it helps keep the weight down....

Cut out the rusted panel

Rust in the sills

Welded in a replacement from stainless

Garage cleanup and some welding

Well I had the family out on Saturday so I had a good full day in the garage. Took the opportunity to do a garage cleanup and rearrange to give me some more space to work on the ute. 
The first project car (Lotus 7 replica) was moved forward and put under a blanket for a sleep until the ute is finished. I also moved around the spare engine (4AG silvertop) to the under-bench engine storage area. And cleaned up the bench so I have a nice place to work on the electricals (the next step). I also popped the TIG setup on the bench so it's easier to use.

The Lotus 7 replica. Under blankets for a little while

Cleaned up bench (you should have seen it before!)

Engines under the bench (one 20V 4AG and a 16V 4AG with a stuffed bottom end)

Next up I got out the welder to do a few bodywork fixes. Firstly I plugged the factory aerial hole on the guard with a 1.6mm steel disc, then I patched up a split in the bonnet/hood where the hinge was (I think it was a stress fracture because the hinge was sticking). 

Patched up aerial hole (after grind back and priming)

Poor picture, but it's of the repaired crack in the bonnet near the hinges

And finally I gave the rear tray a cleanup with the grinder (remove some sharp bits and flatten off the welds where the timber is going). 
I also revisited the rear panel where the lights are going. I had MIG'ed the bits together but I didn't like the finished, so I ground them back and went over again with the TIG. Much nicer. 

Rear panel on tray after TIG and final grind back before painting.

Lastly I gave the galvanised parts of the tray (the guards and the tie down bars) a go with some etch primer (AKA white vinegar) before I give it a final wash down with sugar soap and a paint with some satin black epoxy (tomorrow's job)

The ute and tray, now able to be side-by-side in the garage

Finishing the frame structure

So after a week off after a week in Queensland, I've got back into the frame and have finished off the basic structure. 

The tie-down bar supports went in (just used some leftover 100x50 RHS), as did the cross bracing for the forward mounts and a few other bracing sections to help the timber. Next step is to remove the tray and fully weld the bits I couldn't get to, but I need some extra muscle to get the tray off - and it's gone 9:30pm by the time I got to that point. 

I also gave one of the guards a test paint with some leftover Rustoleum Satin Black that I had. It didn't look too bad, but I think I'll still go with an epoxy enamel for the frame. 

Tray (continued)

On the way home I dropped into Masters to pick up some bits I needed. Got a length of angle and some flat bar to finish off the tray (blanking RHS ends, making brackets etc). Nice that Masters carries ungalvanised steel sections (I've only seen gal at Bunnings). I also got a new cutoff wheel and I bought a litre of Rustoleum gloss red for the bodywork.

Next up on the tray was to make the rear panel (where the lights and number plate will go), the front return and more cross members

Next up will be the mounting brackets so I can finally bolt it to the chassis and fully weld it.

Rear tray (cont.) and other bodywork repairs

More on the tray tonight.

Doing a bit of cutting and grinding (after 8pm too.... sorry neighbours) to make the back member and the sides (fore and aft of the guards).

Still to do is to add a few more crossmembers, make the brackets, the front return, the tie-down bars and the rear light mounts. Good fun

Side view showing the gal trailer guards that came with the car. They just needed the original mounting holes plugged up

I've also started to patch up some holes in the doors left there by the original owner (he had fitted some large truck-style mirrors). So I got out the MIG and patched the holes and ground back (roughly) so they can be sanded back and bogged if required.

Welded up some holes above the quarter windows (damned flash)

I also removed the back window just for the hell of it. I really wanted to see what the paint colour was under there. It appears it to be originally red. 

And I also picked up my new rear brake lines from http://www.thebrakeplace.com.au/ in Berwick. The rear brake lines on the car appeared to be newly done, but when I tried to bleed them they leaked out of the tube nut fittings. So I dropped off the original lines to these guys and they replace the lines (just cut to length and fitted with new tube nuts) for $36. Pretty good I say. They even supplied some 3/8" bleeder nipples because mine were a bit shot. 

Old (top) and new (bottom) lines. I just need to bend it myself

Playing with paints and starting the rear tray

Today I fitted the new side indicators (will be required for registration since the original builder removed the front corner indicators. 

Here's the car with the new indicators trial fitted (just forward of the a-pillar). Is it just me, or does the car look like a Lancia Fulvia here?

I also had a play around with some paints. I've read a few pages about guys in the US using Rustoleum to paint cars. 

This guy had painted with the flat black paint:
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/hrdp-1108-1967-chevy-camaro-affordably-flat-painting/

And this guy had painted a Corvair with a gloss white (with a roller of all things!)

http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

So I got a couple of small pots of Rustoleum from the local hardware shop. Got some gloss red and some satin black. I tried both on the car - the black came out OK and I was very tempted to do the whole car in it. But then I tried the gloss red on the front guards and it's very nearly the same colour as the original paint. It came up very nice just applied with a brush, and judging by the Corvair (above) I think the finish will be very good when I spray it. 

Starting the rear tray

So I removed the existing rear tray (and it was f&*king heavy!) and set about building a new one. I'm reusing the gal trailer guards that came with the car, so I've welded up the existing bolt holes because the top will be on show. Below is some pics of the initial layout of the steel frame (I'm using 50x25x1.6 RHS). The frame will be simple 1.5m wide x 1.9m (or thereabouts) long with a 400-500mm return on the front, and I'll be lining with decking or flooring boards. The load capacity will be reduced slightly I guess.

Lowering the Datsun

I've been researching how to lower the truck. I was originally planning on resetting the rear leaf springs, but then decided on getting some lowering blocks instead. I got a quote at Supercheap (!) for the aftermarket Nolathane kit for this car (part number 47960) and they wanted $200. I figure that's pretty steep for some u-bolts and a block of aluminium. I went chasing some u-bolts to do it myself but they turned out to be $75 for 4 of them. 

Luckily I found these guys at Online Performance in Hallam who had the kit for about 1/2 the price. And here it is

Here's the back of the ute at the standard ride height. 

And here's the standard u-bolts holding the axle to the leaf springs

Removing the existing setup was easy enough. Here's the lowering blocks in place. I ended up shortening the supplied u-bolts by about 40mm. 

And I had to shorten the existing rubber bump stops (did with a hacksaw)

Lowering the front

The front suspension is torsion bars which can be adjusted down to lower the ride height. Here's a pic of the adjustment bolts. With the existing bolts, you can get about 50-60mm drop at the front. Basically you turn these square nuts anti-clockwise to loosen the bolts to drop the height. 

So I ended up with around a 2.5" drop all around, which has really helped the stance.